Why & How to Use Developer When Glossing

When it comes to glossing choosing to use either developer or processing solution can greatly impact the finished result greatly.

When deciding what to choose you must determine a few things first:

1: Does your color line contain Ammonia or Monoethanolamide (MEA)

If so, then the color has the ability to lift/lighten the hair. When glossing, you want to have an Ammonia & MEA free color to avoid "Hot roots" & unwanted lift.

2: Does the hair have mineral buildup?

Mineral Build up can drastically change the outcome of a coloring service. If you are dealing with significant build up, I suggest doing a pre treatment with Malibu Crystal Gel before starting the process.

3: Does the client have Fine & level 8+ hair?

Developer essentially chews through the cuticle layer of the hair because of the acidity. When this happens, exposed melanin is now visible which means the base has shifted & it contains warmth.

If your client matches this description, lower the developer to avoid lifting or use processing solution.

What raising/ using developer does & when to use it:

-Intensifies tone without having to drop a level

-Creates a longer lasting color (perfect for hair that struggles to hold onto color)

-Acts more like a demi permanent color

-Cancels out excess warmth or helps to add a more vibrant warmth

-Blending out lines of demarcation (developer allows a more solid finish vs processing solution can have more of a shear finish)

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