Everything You Need To Know About Foilayage
What if I told you that with the technique, no root smudging or melting will be needed and that the outcome would be seamlessly blended? Sound impossible? I promise it's not!
Personally I don't like root smudging and melting. I feel that it takes too much times and I would rather spend that time either blending each section a little more or letting the gloss sit on longer. So I came up with this method through trial and error and have finally figured out how to create the softest, most blended foilayage ever that has seriously changed my game behind the chair.
I have been able to give my clients that "Balayage" look with allowing them to get more than 3-5 levels of lift. Crazy right?? They have been loving it!!
STEP 1
CHOOSING THE CORRECT TOOLS: These tools have made the application process so easy and quick!
-Balayage Board. I use the Framar board https://www.amazon.com/Framar-Foil-Balayage-Board-Paddle/dp/B0145OU5VA/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=balayage+board&qid=1595882428&sr=8-3
This board provides a sturdy canvas for the hair to rest on and makes painting and saturating so much easier.
-Framar Color Brush. This brush is the perfect size to create that seamless blend.
-Cricket Weaving comb. I use this comb to section, weave and tease each section.
STEP 2
SECTIONING:
Choosing your sectioning pattern will greatly effect the outcome of your color. Utilizing diagonal sections will allow the hair to fall softer to create a more blended result.
Here are the diagrams I use to section my guests. Keep in mind that you may not need to do this many sections but I wanted to emphasize the point.
Back of the Head: I part the hair down the middle and then foil in diagonal sections. When I get to the top of the head (and my partings have made about a 2.5 by 2.5 triangle) I then foil horizontally.
Side of the head: The solid thicker lines indicate babylights or vocal points of brightness where minimal depth lives. It is your clients personal preference if they would prefer a brighter hairline of have the same look all throughout.
STEP 3
WEAVING & TEASING
The process is simple:
1: Part a diagonal section ( about a half an inch for a more dimensional look or 1/4 inch for a lighter brighter finish)
2: Tease the section starting from the mids. Tease until you can see that all along the roots there is an even tease. (Typically you don't have to tease more than 3 times)
3: Weave the section (Teasing the section and then weaving out what you actually want to lighten will diffuse the line even more to create a softer blend)
4: Lay foil on board (I like to fold the top of the foil over the top of the board to secure it)
5: Lay hair on foil and begin applying lightener to the mid section. (Apply to mids first and make sure you have left plenty of room to create your transition)
6: Starting from the mids with minimum product on your brush, flick the lighten up to soften the line.
7: Take the edge of your brush and softly feather and blur with minimal product on your brush
8: Saturate through the ends
9: Do not fold the foil, this could cause bleeding or uneven lift. Instead lay another foil directly on top of the section.
10: Repeat
STEP 4
PROCESS
Since each section is thin, and small you should be able to achieve just about the same amount of lift as traditional highlights.
To help the process along I like to put my client under the Medusa Infrared Color Processor https://www.minervabeauty.com/medusa-infrared-color-hair-processor-1
This is really nice because I can apply the light to certain sections at a time and it helps to speed up the processing time without blowing open the cuticle and causing damage.
STEP 5
COMB OUT
Honestly, this part is not my favorite. But to make it easier I recommend applying a deep conditioning mask, or heavy duty conditioner to the hair after rinsing. This will allow the hair to get nourishment and protein back into the hair as you are detangling. After I have detangled then I will proceed to shampoo and apply my gloss.
Step 6
GLOSSING
Like I said there is no need for smudging or melting because the foiling pattern, tease and painting have already taken care of that for you! So now I just apply my all over gloss and process for 15-20 minutes and YAY!!! We have the most beautiful blended result!!
I will include pictures of what this process looks like for the finished results!
I hope you learned something new and that you try this technique! I would love to see how it turns out! Feel free to tag me so I can have a look!
As always if you have any questions don't hesitate to reach out!
If you aren't following me on Instagram, head on over and check me out @becthestylist
for educational content, fun hair ideas and loads of fun!
Thanks for reading todays blog post and I will see you next time!
xoxo,
Bec
Comments